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Madagascar cumin

Madagascar cumin, SA.VA. Import - Export, 5 for 30grams.

Cumin is a favorite ingredient in my kitchen, and a key spice in Mexico, India, and many other food cultures. To satisfy my need for bulk cumin, I usually buy a 1kg (2.2lbs) bag that lasts about a year. I compared SA.VA.’s cumin to my usual stuff, and found a huge difference in quality. SA.VA.’s spices are transported by plane, rather than hot containers on a ship, to ensure maximum taste and freshness.

SA.VA.’s Madagascar cumin is an earthy tan color, and has a rich, even floral, cumin aroma.  I ate a bit of SA.VA.’s Madagascar cumin and compared it to my bulk cumin. Raw, SA.VA’s cumin has a pleasant taste. In comparison, the bulk cumin is dry, bitter, and has a carroty vegital flavor.

I evaluated it further in chili powder, some Mexican dishes, and chicken Andoulle sausage. All had a nice flavor, though it really shines where cumin is a feature flavor. SA.VA.’s cumin is by far the best I’ve ever sampled.  In a side-by-side comparison, the sharp contrast with my usual cumin really surprised me. Try the comparison for yourself.

Madagascar Cinnamon

Madagascar cinnamon sticks, SA.VA. Import - Export, 3€ per 3 sticks.

Cinnamon is a favorite holiday spice, perfect for Santa’s cookies and Christmas morning sticky rolls. SA.VA.’s Madagascar cinnamon is different from the bland, ground powder at the local market. The ground sticks have a bright, hot, citrus aroma. It makes me think of cinnamon bears or red hots. The sticks are made of thin layers, and I can crush them with my fingers and grind them in a coffee grinder — something I can’t normally do with cassia cinnamon sticks.

This cinnamon has a yellow-tan color that is lighter than the usual, rusty-red hues of traditional cassia. Its bright aroma also  stands in contrast to the typically warmer, darker smell of cassia. Because of these qualities, I initially thought this was ceylon (true) cinnamon, and not the cassia cinnamon I’m used to buying in European and American supermarkets. Ceylon cinnamon is the cinnamon of choice in Mexico, and perhaps the UK.  I wrote to Edith at SA.VA. to ask if this was ceylon cinnamon. According to Edith, I’m completely wrong:

All the cinnamon from Madagascar is regarded as cassia, although very different from the cassia usually sold in the European supermarket. So this cassia classification does not make happy the Madagascar cinnamon producers,  that would prefer another denomination, as for instance the “Madagascar cinnamon” that we’re using in our technical schedule.

Our cinnamon comes from a family farm production in the region of Tamatave (east coast of Madagascar), as I know this family very well for a long time I’ve started to cooperate with them here in Europe.

With a citrus aroma and delicate layers, this Madagascar strain is a cassia that shares many characteristics with ceylon cinnamon. It is unique in the world, and will surely add a personal signature to your baked goods.

Broken Nose Vanilla - a real mean bean!
Far North Queensland, Australia

Website: http://www.brokennosevanilla.com.au/
Vanilla beans reviewed: 2 grade A, 6 grade B Australia Planifolia
Cost: Broken Nose Vanilla provided these beans for review.

“Broken Nose Vanilla - a real mean bean!”, how cool is that? This vanilla is grown and then cured on the same farm — a real rarity in the modern vanilla trade that usually uses centralized curing facilities. Fiona first told us about her vanilla plantation about a year ago. At the time they were still anticipating the first beans. As promised, Fiona sent along several vanilla beans from the first harvest.

Australia Planifolia, Grade “A”

Broken Nose Vanilla sent two Grade “A” vanilla beans from their first harvest. The vanilla is flexible and long. The skin is supple and black. One bean is round and packed firm with caviar, the other wide and flatter in shape.

The aroma is sweet and unctuous. Overall, it’s brighter and fruitier than traditional Madagascar-grown planifolia. They smell really fantastic.

Inside, the beans are surprisingly wet with a rich red/brown oil. The caviar is extremely oily, yield is slightly above average for two vanilla beans.

Australia Planifolia, Grade “B”

Broken Nose Vanilla grades beans by length, grade “B” are shorter gourmet vanilla beans, and not extract grade as the name suggests.

Compared to the grade “A” vanilla, these beans are lighter in color and a bit dryer.  They are supple, soft, and flexible.  All the beans are round and plump.

These shorter beans have a beautifully moist and oily interior. Note the beautiful pools of goop and moisture in the bisection images (click any picture to enlarge). Nice yield of caviar for beans this size. The caviar is firm and moldable.

Vanilla is making inroads in Australia, and farm-grown and cured vanilla is still a real rarity anywhere in the world. Congratulations to Broken Nose Vanilla on a fantastic first harvest and cure. I wish them the best of luck for their second and future harvests.

If you have any questions about Australian vanilla, or growing vanilla in Australia, Fiona is generally available to answer questions via e-mail or the comments below.

Here’s some info from Fiona about the plantation:

The property is around 12 acres, mostly hilly, that borders the Russell River and overlooks the Russell River valley towards the mountains. Although only slightly elevated, it is a bit cooler than the rest of the coastal plain - breezes funnel through the valley and the cool air falls off the mountain at night, taking the edge of the tropical summer heat.

The surrounding country grows mostly rainforest, sugar cane and bananas - a palette of greens. We enjoy the ‘dragon breath’ mists that rise from the valley and the mountain rifts in wisps and drifts, and we have wonderful sunsets.

One of the mountain peaks is called Broken Nose - hence our name: Broken Nose Vanilla.

The vanilla (V. planifolia) grows under 50% shade amongst patches of revegetating rainforest (it used to be sugar cane). It grows in pure mulch, supplied from mulching fallen rainforest timber from the recent cyclone (March 2006), and from local council prunings and roadside maintenance etc. The cyclone provided the area with about 10 years worth of mulch!

We can get up to 6metres (=240inches!) of rain a year, so being on hills has its pros and cons - good drainage but we need to be careful of erosion in disturbed areas. We seldom have to irrigate. Temperatures range from around 12degrees C minimum (54deg F) in the dry season (June-October) to 35degrees C (95deg F) in the wet season. Humidity seldom drops below 70% even in the Dry. Summer is usually 90% plus.

We use NO chemicals or fertilisers except the occasional fish emulsion foliar spray once or twice a year to guard against winter fungi on the leaves. We are in the process of organic certification through Biological Farmers Australia.

The first useable crop will be picked in July-Sept 2008, with products available by Christmas.

Check out the full Broken Nose Vanilla plantation gallery. Fiona provided some of the most dramatic and professional vanilla plantation shots I’ve ever seen — beautiful and amazing, check it out!

Pili pili, SA.VA. Import - Export

Red chilis, SA.VA. Import - Export, 5 per 18grams.

These beautiful, bright red peppers are a type of Thai Chili grown in Madagascar. I use a lot of dried chili peppers, usually from Indonesia, Thailand, and Mexico. SA.VA. Import - Export’s Pili Pili peppers are the freshest I’ve ever worked with. Most dried chilis have a typical dusty, dry pepper aroma. These peppers smell spicy and hot, and have the fresh aroma of sun dried tomatoes! This is a different class of chili than I usually work with; fresh, rich, and surprising.

I sampled these chilis raw, and in several spicy dishes. They impart a fresh tomato richness I’ve never tasted from a chili before. Don’t be fooled by their size and tomato aromas, these little chilis are are fiery hot. Four chilis made a pound of very spicy Andouille sausage. If you’re a chili lover, like me, you’ve got try these amazing chilis.

Website: http://www.hawaiianvanilla.com/
Vanilla beans reviewed: 3 Hawaiian planifolia.
Cost: a reader kindly provided these beans for the site.

Vanilla is grown commercially in very small quantities on the Big Island of Hawaii. You can buy expensive bottles containing one ($10) or three ($25) vanilla beans from the Hawaiian Vanilla Company.

A reader took a tour of the Hawaiian Vanilla Company, and was kind enough to send a range of vanilla and macadamia nut products.

The vanilla is somewhat-to-very plump, with dark, matte skins. The pods are flexible with a beautiful, sweet aroma. The aroma is rich, and sweeter than traditional Madagascar grown vanilla.

Yield of caviar is average for vanilla this size. The caviar is brown, thick, and formable, but not especially oily. These beans come from old stock, prior to a viral outbreak of the vanilla vines at the Hawaiian Vanilla Company. A reader reports that their new vines are doing well.

Three vanilla beans were packaged in a very heavy glass bottle. One bean was too long to fit in the bottle and was damaged by being bent. Instructions on the bottle recommend slicing one bean and filling the bottle with alcohol, but at ~1cup, this extract would be eight times weaker than normal. The vanilla beans are wonderful, but the bottle is  expensive, fragile, and heavy to ship; I hope they consider an alternate package when the new crop is finished curing.

Be sure to visit the Hawaiian Vanilla Company the next time you’re on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Jim Reddekopp at the Hawaiian Vanilla Company says that their vanilla sells to local restaurants and hotels so fast that there’s no bulk beans left for me (or you!). I recommend that you contact Clare at Huahua Farm, also on the Big Island. If the timing is right, you might be able to buy some vanilla beans from her.

Thanks to Hawaiian Vanilla Company for providing some photos of their vanilla plantation.

A bit of information from the Hawaiian Vanilla Company website:

[Our] vanilla beans are graded by their length. Our beans come in two grades: Grade A, which is more than 6” long and costs $190/pound; and Grade B, which is less than 6” long and costs $175/pound. We also sell individual beans for $10, and a pack of 3 beans for $25.

Tracy and I both pollinate the orchids, along with our three oldest children – Ian (11), Emma (10) and Isaac (8). Additionally, we bring in 4-6 other pollinators during this busy period.

Gale writes:

I was recently in Hawaii and bought a 3-bean bottle from Hawaiian Vanilla Company for $25 and added Absolut vodka to the bottle. I have to tell you that the Hawaiian Vanilla Company beans were absolutely luscious — long (about 8″ long), extremely plump and with a great smell.

sava-pepper2

Black peppercorns, SA.VA. Import - Export, 5 per 30grams.

Black peppercorns are one of my favorite spices. When Edith at SA.VA. Import - Export asked if I would evaluate some fresh spices flown in from Madagascar, I jumped at the chance. SA.VA.’s spices are transported by plane, rather than shipping container. Most spices lose flavor during transit through tropical areas in metal shipping containers.  SA.VA.’s spices are flow in to preserve the intense flavors and freshness.

SA.VA.’s peppercorns are the most aromatic and fruity I’ve ever tried. It’s not as hot or ’spicy’ as an Indian ‘extra bold’, but it’s significantly more pungent and flavorful. Fresh ground, they have the strong pungent aroma of sassafras oil, probably from a high concentration of  the chemical that makes black pepper tasty, piperonal. Really incredible peppercorns, I can tell the difference that air transport makes. If you like black pepper, SA.VA’s fresh peppercorns are a surprising and unique treat. Highly recommended to any gourmands and foodies out there, this is a peppercorn you won’t soon forget.

Website:http://www.daintreevanilla.com
Vanilla beans reviewed:”A grade” and “B grade” Australia grown planifolia.
Cost: Daintree Vanilla & Spice sent sample vanilla beans.

Daintree Vanilla and Spice is the first commercial seller of single source, Australian grown vanilla beans. This organic plantation grows and cures vanilla planifolia beans in Australia’s Daintree rainforest. George Gonthier, general manager of Daintree Vanilla & Spice, is an Australian vanilla pioneer.

According to George:

We have been growing vanilla in North Queensland, Australia for 10 years on a large scale in the Daintree rainforest and have been producing beans for about 5 years. We are also working in collaboration with Australian Vanilla Plantation … and building a greenhouse for the University of Western Sydney to do research.

Pollination has just started again, we start off say 1 thousand flowers. That will increase to about 6-8 thousand per day at full swing until end of November.

The pods samples are pure vanilla, no coconut oil or other oil additive. I also process the pods on the property. We pride ourselves as pure and proud to be Australian owned and grown.

If you’re thinking about growing vanilla in Australia, George can supply vanilla vines and advise:

We are not the only growers here in the far north, I know all of them as I sold them the plants. [Don't take] advice from Mexican growers, whose environments are totally different than ours. My family will guide local farmers to be successful, and we have the University of Western Sydney as support…

The beautiful Daintree website includes history of the vanilla plantation, and the family who operates it. Cameron at Daintree sent these pictures of the plantation.

Daintree Vanilla & Spice Australia Vanilla Planifolia — 6-7″/16-17cm ($100 AUD per 250 grams)
A single, beautiful Australian vanilla bean arrived packaged in a plastic tube. Daintree calls this “A Grade”, which I would call Grade A 16-17 cm. This is a gorgeous, single source vanilla bean, grown and cured in the Daintree rainforest in northern Australia.

The vanilla bean is super flexible. It is dark brown to black in color, and is waxy and pliable. The aroma is overwhelmingly creamy and soft.

The caviar is wet and oily, with a few very goopy, sticky areas. Quite heavy and thick caviar, with a beautiful oily shine. Caviar yield is average for a vanilla bean of this size.

Daintree Vanilla & Spice Australia Vanilla Planifolia — under 6″/15cm ($60 AUD per 250 grams)
Twenty-eight brown “B Grade” vanilla beans arrived packed in wax paper and foil. Daintree calls these “B Grade”, but I would call them Grade A 16- cm, because they’re too nice to deem Extract Grade as the name implies. They are round, plump, straight and short. The skin is drier-looking than the A Grade, with a nice waxy finish. Like the longer beans, these weren’t vacuum packed, thus the skin remains waxy, rather than greasy. The vanilla beans are flexible enough to tie in a knot. Their reasonable size and elegant shape make them a beautiful garnish for high-end dishes.

Inside, the vanilla has a creamy aroma that is very nice. Even though the outside appears dry, the caviar is heavy and oily. The beans are surprisingly easy to bisect. They appear hard to cut, but only require one swipe with the knife because they are so moist inside. The caviar texture is luxurious, soft and velvety to the touch. The caviar yield is above-average for such small beans.

Daintree vanilla beans are single source, grown and cured in Australia’s Daintree rainforest. Single source vanilla is a real rarity in the modern vanilla trade that is dominated by central curing houses. If you’re looking for unique, high quality, real Australia grown vanilla, then check out Daintree Vanilla & Spice.

Website: tahiti-vanille.com…
Vanilla beans reviewed: Tahiti grown tahitensis from the islands of Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bora Bora.
Cost: Please refer to the notes.

Tahiti Vanille sells single source tahitensis beans grown and cured at three different plantations in Tahiti. One of these locations is Raiatea (formerly plantation La Vanillere), the same beans sold by vanillafromtahiti.com. The others are Tahaa and Bora-Bora.

While most Tahiti grown vanilla goes through a central curer like Jean Chan, these guys do it a bit different and are winning big awards.

Alain ABEL sent pictures of the plantation, and this information:

Why Is Terroir Important?
For nearly ten years now, the Tahiti Vanille team has been helping to promote this rare flavouring for discerning consumers, not just by cultivating it, but also by preparing it and exporting it to the four corners of the earth, with love, pride and passion.

The team is made up of four young Polynesians.

The idea came out of a very simple observation: for the past hundred years, almost all of the thousand Polynesian Vanilla growers have no longer prepared their own vanillas (drying); they pick them and sell them to the few preparers active in the territory. The result is that each preparer obtains vanilla from at least one hundred planters spread out over the entire archipelago. All of the vanilla from the various plantations and islands is thus mixed together and prepared at the same time.

Once the notion of terroir was abandoned, the vanillas were no longer distinguishable. “There was a need to recapture the nourishing terroirs of our precious Tahitian Vanilla, differentiate them, identify them, make them known.”

With a constant concern for unparalleled quality, Alain Abel rediscovered these Polynesian terroirs and distinguished them into three Premier Plantation Regions, in order to develop vanillas rich in history, to be sampled and savoured like fine wines.

Premier Plantation Region Raiatea (Cru Raiatea) Please note that “Cru la Vanillère” is now “Cru Raiatea”. [ed: These are the same vanilla beans sold by vanillafromtahiti.com and reviewed here.]
In the deep and fertile valley of Hotopuu, not far from the famous marae of Taputapuatea, the historical cradle of Maohi culture, valued for its location and its exceptional sunlight, the Premier Plantation Region Raiatea came into being.

The product of wild vines gathered in the forest, propagated by cuttings in terraces under shading nets, in a plant compost coming exclusively from coconut palms (trunks, down, palms), the Premier Plantation Region Raiatea offers long and fleshy vanilla beans and develops their delicious caramel and anise flavours in a remarkable, unctuous, sweet-smelling mixture.

Premier Plantation Region Tahaa (Cru Tahaa)
We selected this plantation, located in the superb and untamed island of Tahaa, the sister of Raiatea, for the quality of its mature beans. The plantation is of the traditional type. The vines are planted on hillsides, on shrubs serving as stakes.

The soil is naturally enriched with the leaves of a deciduous tree: the Bourrao.

The beans of Premier Plantation Region Tahaa are fleshy and shorter, and gradually release a rich, fruity, smooth aromatic bouquet, featuring sublime floral notes.

Premier Plantation Region Bora-Bora (Cru Bora-Bora)
It is on the west cost of the island of Tahaa, just opposite the delightfully enchanting Bora-Bora, far removed from human habitation, that we selected this plantation, admired for the quality of its natural humus and its red earth, constantly enriched by the leaves of a tree called Falcata.

The vanilla plants are arranged on hillsides, and sunlight is controlled by pruning the branches of the shrubs by hand. The beans are oily and fleshy. This Premier Plantation Region releases the accents of a rich, tropical volcanic earth, in a constant mixture of the pleasant and gentle scents of prunes, vanilla, liquorice and chocolate.

Awards
March 2008: Vanilla curor Alain ABEL wins the GOLD Medal 2008 at the Concours Général Agricole de Paris, Category: Vanilla Tahitensis.
February 2007: Alain ABEL wins the GOLD Medal at the Concours Général Agricole de Paris, Category: Vanilla Tahitensis.

Note also that we supply some the most famous chefs around the world: Joel Robuchon, Alain Ducasse, Guy Savoy, Alain Senderens, etc..

Tahiti Vanille Raiatea, Tahiti Vanilla tahitensis.
Tahiti Vanilla’s primary plantation, Raiatea, grows award winning Tahitian tahitensis vanilla beans that are used by top chefs the world over. Note: “La Vanillère” is now know as “Cru Raiatea” — these are the same vanilla beans sold by vanillafromtahiti.com and reviewed here.

Tahiti Vanille Tahaa, Tahiti Vanilla tahitensis.
This is the shortest of Tahiti Vanille’s three vanilla origins. They are extremely moist both inside and out — a floppy, soft, and very supple vanilla bean. The skins are brown in color, and are not overly greasy/shiny because they were not vacuum packed. The beans are very plump, but not as full as Tahiti Vanille’s Raiatea grown vanilla beans.

Inside, the vanilla beans contain a plentiful amount of caviar for their size. The texture of the caviar is very interesting; it is extremely gooey, stringy and moist but at the same time does not stick well to other clumps of caviar. The aroma is strong and sweet, with a spicy undertone.

These are beautiful, single-source Tahitian vanilla beans. While these beans are not quite nice as those from Tahiti Vanille’s primary plantation, Raiatea, they are still top-quality and are good examples of a distinctive, single-source vanilla bean.

Tahiti Vanille Bora Bora, Tahiti Vanilla tahitensis.
This is the longest of the three Tahiti Vanille varieties. The vanilla pod is supple, black in color, and moderately plump. The vanilla beans are pliable and flexible, but not floppy.

While the aroma of the Tahaa variety had a sharper, slightly more acidic aroma, the Bora Bora beans have a soft and buttery scent. The caviar is super goopy, but less wet than the Tahaa vanilla beans. Gooey strings run through the caviar, leaving sticky fingers after handling. The beans yield an average amount of caviar for their size.

These are beautiful, single-source Tahitian vanilla beans. While they are not quite nice as those from Tahiti Vanille’s primary plantation, Raiatea, they are top-quality examples of a distinctive, single-source vanilla bean.

Website: http://www.rainforestspices.com
Vanilla beans reviewed: Gourmet #1,#2, & Grade #3.
Cost: Rainforestspices.com sent samples for the site.

Villa Vanilla is a biodynamic farm and tourist destination in Costa Rica. Their single-source, organic vanilla beans are sold farm-direct from the Rainforestspices.com website. Several farm-direct spices are available, including vanilla beans, vanilla extract, and cinnamon.

The vanilla beans are grown biodynamically, going way beyond traditional organic farming. The vanilla plantation is conceived as sustainable a system of different plants and animals. The diversity of this system prevents diseases and land use problems associated with single-crop agriculture. According to my research, Villa Vanilla is the only Demeter certified biodynamic vanilla farm in the world.

Henry at Villa Vanilla/Rainforestspices.com sent this great description of the vanilla operation:

I have been in vanilla production for 21 years and I was Frontier’s Natural Products organic supplier in the 90’s. A blight affected the vanilla production in mid-late 90’s and I discovered biodynamic cultural practices as a remedy to continue growing vanilla. My farm is the first Demeter certified biodynamic farm in Central America and I have since worked in vanilla in Mexico, El Salvador, Hawaii, Madagascar and Costa Rica.

The farm is located close to Manuel Antonio National Park, a major tourist destination. I host students and tourists for our educational tour “Spices, Gardens & more…” and successfully sell our spices at retail prices at our well known “Spice Shoppe”.

You can visit Villa Vanilla in Costa Rica for a farm tour, or stay in one of two cabins. Adventurous student eco-tourists can work on the vanilla farm for a week, and learn about sustainable agriculture. Accommodation, tour, and shop information are available on the website.

Villa Vanilla sent three samples of biodynamic vanilla beans. The beans arrived quickly from Costa Rica, wrapped in wax paper and plastic. Shipping is very reasonable at $7 per pound.

Villa Vanilla / Rainforestspices.com Costa Rica Planifolia Gourmet #1: 8 1/2 to 10 inches ($92 per pound)
These are giant vanilla beans, the biggest on the site (as of August 2008). It’s even more amazing that this is a common size from the plantation, not just a sample of exceptionally large vanilla beans. The growing conditions at Villa Vanilla must be exceptional to grow vanilla like this. Not only are the pods long, they are very wide and quite plump. Rainforestspices.com calls these “Gourmet #1″, which I would translate to “Grade A, long”.

The pod is soft, supple, and black to very dark brown in color. The skin is mildly shiny and waxy, but not greasy — this vanilla has not been vacuum packaged. The beans are flexible and beautiful.

Several beans have visible oil in the caviar when cut open, the aroma is pleasant. The volume of crumbly caviar is easily equivalent to the amount in 4 or more average size vanilla beans.

Villa Vanilla / Rainforestspices.com Costa Rica Planifolia Gourmet #2: 6 1/2 to 8 inches ($82 per 16 oz)
Rainforestspices.com calls these “Gourmet #2″, which I would translate to “Grade A, mixed/medium lengths”. The size varies a bit — I tried to show the range of sizes in the picture.

These are very similar to the longer Gourmet #1 vanilla, but shorter and thinner. The skin is soft and supple. The color is black to very dark brown.

Several beans have split ends. Split ends are not necessarily bad — this is notable because none of the Gourmet #1 or Grade #3 beans have split ends.

The aroma is similar to the longer variety. The caviar is airy and light, with a moderate yield.